TRAINING:
TOP TIPS

SKIFF SAILOR SECRETS....

Here are some top tips from some of the best sailors in our class over the years.

We will add more sailor secrets to this page, so keep coming back to see what you can find and learn from. If you want to share a top tip with the class on this page, contact us at marketingREMOVE@REMOVEmustoskiff.com

You can also find loads more tips for your boat and sailing performance in our ‘Pimp My Skiff‘ section.

#1
What is the best way to get out of irons if I have messed up a tack?

Sailor secrets shared by Kev Anderson and Richard Stenhouse

Kev Anderson Said: “Simple – Just don’t do it !! There is no fast way out of it and once you are there your race is over” I can already see a follow-up question coming.

Richard Stenhouse gave a more detailed answer; “There are several things that you can use to get you sailing again.

  1. the Sail, this can be pulled to windward to push the bow round, backed to leeward to reverse out or trimmed to sail forwards.
  2. the hull shape, this can be used to steer the boat in the skiff it over rides the rudder at low speeds
  3. Centre of Effort, use this is like a windsurfer it is the relationship between the rig foils and you
  4. Rudder, get better with this and you wont be in irons in the first place
  5. Kinetics – the boat will move in relationship to how you move
  6. Rig settings – this can be used to make tacking easy i.e. rake up, doownhaul on ,outhaul on, kicker off and board slightly raised. this isn’t so fast in a straight line.

So a combination of these will get you going quicker.
Back the sail to leeward heel to leeward helm to leeward trim forward to reverse out of irons to beam reach. Then trim the sail in, heel to windward, bear away step out on the wire keep trim forward until rudder gains flow.

#2
How should I trim the sail?

Sailor secrets shared by Richard Stenhouse

In light winds below 5knts I use max cunningham and no kicker. twisting off the top of the sail.

In Medium winds 6 to 10knts I use enough cunningham to take out creases (very little) and medium kicker to give maximum power to get out on the wire earlier.

In strong winds (anything above 10 knts) I use max cunningham and medium kicker, the outhaul is in a position where, with max kicker and cunningham, the foot doesn’t get a crease along the bottom. When sailing on the correct settings it’s too baggy – if it gets baggy behind knav and too rounded up in leach, the boat gets more difficult to handle. Sorry it’s a bit vague, but it will vary depending how old your sails are.

I sail with the same setting of outhaul for all conditions, except occasionally in very very light, I pull it flat.

#3
What are the key issues in the light stuff?

Sailor secrets shared FROM THE INLANDS

For good speed:

  • With the light winds below trapezing conditions, use the cunningham and no gnav to stop the leach hooking
    Keep your weight forward and keep the boat flat and move smoothly to maintain the glide of the boat.

Tactics:

  • In light shifty conditions you need to keep your head out of the boat to stay on the right side of the course. I regularly compare my angle to the mark, and other boats to check I am on the best tack, and for judging the lay line.
  • Look to see were the most pressure is, and the angle of the front of the gust to see if its a lift or header.
    Pre-Start, I try to get in phase with the wind – are the gusts mainly from the left or right or equal every X minutes.
    Which way paid last time? If the wind pattern is the same, it will pay again.
  • Get a good start!

#4
It's blowing dogs off chains, I am approaching the lay line down wind at warp speed, what is the top tip for surviving the gybe?

Sailor secrets shared by Kev Anderson and Richard Stenhouse

Kev said; “I have my main attached to my harness in strong winds for access down wind. As I approach the lay I ease the main from the wire, this is very important as it keeps the boat moving as you come in to the boat. The last thing you want is for the boat to stall because your main is pinned in to far. (We are talking very strong winds here.) Depending on waves I then ease the main right to the boom. I am still hooked on with weight on the wire keeping the boat going as fast as it will go. I then quickly un-hook and immediately go for the gybe by bearing away and leaning into the boat grab the main from the boom with the hand which is holding the kite and pull the boom over. As the boom is coming over I give the boat heeps of -ve helm to counteract the impact of the boom as it reaches the stopper not on the main sheet. As I move across the boat and ensure my full weight hits the wing as quickly as possible. Once through the gybe I then trim on the kite as quickly as I can. Then hook back on and trim the main on a little while wiring off the gunwale, then go out on the wire and get my foot in the strap and then a final main sheet trim. Don’t forget to hang on for grim death fight the boat and drive it on. “

Richard said “Keep it flat, fast and feel positive. Do a rack to rack gybe main slightly eased to around 45 degrees ( to far out , the boat slows down and you have a wide angle to steer, to centred and you get blown over if your gybe isnt perfect).
Steer a smooth arc with no waggling indecesions and cross the boat early ie before the boom, if the boat is heeling you could have gone sooner.
Pick the new kite sheet up from the block as you go and punch it through to the new side, no flapping kite to put you off balance or slow you down. “

#5
WHERE DO YOU LOSE THE MOST GROUND IN THE MUSTO?

Sailor secrets shared by Richard Stenhouse

In a race most ground is lost tacking and it is also the hardest part of the MUSTO Skiff to master, Wire to wire tacking is the ultimate tack but much easier and not that much slower is an advanced safety tack.

  1. Trapeze on the handle in to the tack Keeping the boat flat and fast.
  2. Lead with your front foot. steer smooth and large turning circle into tack
  3. Uncleat main sail as you duck the boom, allow the main to run out to the shroud.
  4. step forwards on the new tack and stand around the kite ratchet block on the gunnel while you hook on, this prevents going into irons.
  5. use more rudder to turn boat as it slows down.
  6. use the step out onto the rack to make sheeting in one arm full.

#6
What is your advice for Big breeze survival bear away

Sailor secrets shared by Richard Stenhouse

  1. Uncleat gnav and cunningham before bear away, this stops you having to go forward to uncleat them and the gnav powers up the rig making it harder to bear away and increases angle of danger zone. the cummingham twists off the top of the rig which pushes you bow down the mine 🙂
  2. In medium to light winds I wire in to the bear away, but in breeze, it all happens to quick. I sit on the T of the rack with my front foot on the gunnel and rear hooked against rack bar
  3. Keep the boat flat and traveling at laser speed (i.e. not too fast)
  4. On suitable wave, ease main and bear away hard – as it bears away, sheet in and over sheet main and continue to bear away on to a run.
  5. Ease the main to the shroud and hoist the kite and send it 🙂
  6. Or, if you can take the flack, single sail on a run. Control the speed by how eased the main is. Over sheet and bear away if it looks like a bad wave ahead but maintain laser speed (slow) with main over sheeted to slow down. You will get blown over and pitch pole if you go to fast.

#7
WHAT IS YOUR TOP TIPS FOR CAPSIZE RECOVERY?

Sailor secrets shared by Richard Stenhouse

Best not to capsize, but if you do:

  1. Bag the kite first from the dagger board (be careful of halyard on deck) – or from in the water – at the back of the boat before it turtles.
  2. With the boat on its side, pull the cunningham and gnav on full (this de-powers the rig) – you will be there all day trying to lift all that water otherwise.
  3. If the rig is into the wind, do the eskimo roll, hold on the dagger board, and as the boat flicks over go under the board and reach around to the new windward gunnel. This should stop it going over again. Climb in between gunnel and rack unless you are an Ant (i.e. very light and agile where you could go out side the rack).