CONTROL
SYSTEM
PIMPS
CONTROL SYSTEM PIMPS....
USEFUL GADGETS TO FULLY PIMP YOUR SKIFF
Coarse adjuster for the trapeze - By Iver Ahlmann (GER)
PIMP MY SKIFF TIPS AND ADVICE FROM THE CLASS
Iver Ahlmann (GER 370) arrived at the world championships in Weymouth with a very neat and well sorted boat. One of the more notable pimps was a coarse adjuster for the trapeze lines which minimised the amount of extra string flying about the boat.
Mode Requires:
- Trapeze line of your choice (e.g. 2mm vectran), thimbles and whipping twine
Instructions:
The adjustment is made by a spliced 2:1 purchase on itself and will reduce from 1200mm to 600mm in length. The whole thing keeps itself in place with friction – even with thimbles in the loops. I’ve seen upwards of 100kg’s hanging from the trapeze with no slippage at all. It is, however, important to stitch the handle end and the eye-splices so that the whole thing will stay in place when there is no load.
To make the adjuster, start with 2400mm of 2.5mm dyneema. Add 200mm each end for an eye splice as well as double the depth you need for a handle – in the photo below, the handle end is to the right, with a tie-lite block, whilst the mast end is to the left.
Cunningham Take Up
(By Ian Martin - GBR 351)
PIMP MY SKIFF TIPS AND ADVICE FROM THE CLASS
This mod has been developed to make a take up on an cunningham to 8:1.
With an 8:1 system and using a lot of cunno when you are maxed out on a windy day there is quite a lot of slack rope loose on the deck.
For the tidy sailors a take up system is a good idea. Most just have a ring on the slack part pulled to the front on elastic. Ian has come up with a more elegant solution.
Instructions:
Just do what it shows in the pictures … or ask Ian via the forum.
Jammer anti-snag
(By Rick Perkins GBR 225)
PIMP MY SKIFF TIPS AND ADVICE FROM THE CLASS
Last year, I came across the Velocitek S10, a GPS speedometer specially designed for sailing sports. The S10 comes in a strong casing. It has large digits and two buttons on each side. The buttons work by just putting your finger onto it.
The S10 package comes with a usb cable and two velcro strips to attach it to a bracket or straight to your boat. You can also equip the S10 with a clip with which you can attach it to a bar or the boom of a surfboard. See below for the images of this attached to the boat.
Kite Sheet Modification (By Rick Perkins)
PIMP MY SKIFF TIPS AND ADVICE FROM THE CLASS
This mod has been developed to tidy up the kite sheets as you pull the kite down.
Mode Requires:
- 3mm elastic
- 3 plastic rings
- Double block
Instructions:
Tie one platic ring on the back of the drinks carrier (red arrow).
Then place a plastic ring on each kite sheet (blue arrow)
Then tie the elastic to each ring and run it through the ring on the boom. Then round a pully tied at the bow then the end goes onto the aft end of the pole.
That way when the kite goes up and the pole out the elastic slackens off and the sheets run free. As the kite comes down and the pole comes in the elastic is pulled tight pulling the kite sheets on board.
Kite Halyard Take Up
(Jamie Stevenson GBR 215)
PIMP MY SKIFF TIPS AND ADVICE FROM THE CLASS
This modification has been developed to tidy up the kite halyard as the kite is pulled down but allow the halyard (down haul) to be free when the kite is up.
Mode Requires:
- 4mm shot cord
- Single block
Instructions:
Attach the single block to the eyelet at the front of the boat (port side) Attach the 4mm shot cord to the end of the pole thread though the block at the front of the boat & pass the shock core back though the cummingham eye (to keep shock cord central) then back & around to the rudder pin to attach to a 30mm block.
Outhaul Elastic Modification
(SUI Fleets - SENT IN by Marc Bell)
PIMP MY SKIFF TIPS AND ADVICE FROM THE CLASS
This mod has been developed to tidy the outhaul.
Mode Requires:
- Elastic & Hook
Instructions:
Clew Outhaul 1 – inboard end
Two simple loops of elastic allow the loose end of the clew outhaul to be tidied away.
Clew Outhaul 2 – transom end
A loop of elastic applies tension – this helps when easing the outhaul, and also prevents the clew coming of the end of the boom in ‘sail flapping’ conditions.
Kite Halyard Take Up
(Jamie Stevenson GBR 215)
Main Halyard Modification
(SUI Fleet - Sent in by Marc Bell)
PIMP MY SKIFF TIPS AND ADVICE FROM THE CLASS
This mod has been developed to make it easier to hoist the main.
Mode Requires:
- Block
Instructions:
A simple block at the foot of the mast helps when pulling the mainsail up.
The UK fleet have a slight variation on this … show here with the block attached to the screw that holds the mast heel in place.
Rack Line Modification
(SUI Fleet - Sent in by Marc Bell)
PIMP MY SKIFF TIPS AND ADVICE FROM THE CLASS
This mod has been developed to hold the ratchet blocks in position.
Mode Requires:
- Elastic
Instructions:
Elastic to stop the spinnaker sheet block moving too much – reduces deck abrasion.
Close up shows where to tie the shock-cord, and also my ‘spring covered in tape, to keep the block away from the deck gelcoat.
Ed’s note: I also do this but slightly differently. Using a single length of elastic route it across the boat and it also holds the kite halyard out of the cleat on the drop. I also tie the elastic around the base of the block.
Trapeze Elastic Modification
(SUI Fleet - Sent in by Marc Bell)
PIMP MY SKIFF TIPS AND ADVICE FROM THE CLASS
This mod has been developed to hold the trapeze further forward – very useful for people who sail in light wind venues.
Mode Requires:
- 5 small blocks and elastic.
Instructions:
Most of the Swiss boats have moved the trapeze forward. First shot show where the trapeze elastic is mounted on the wing.
Second block for the elastic runs of the cunningham eye.
The elastic runs forward, above everything, and through a block on the forestay fitting. The elastic then runs down the other side for a symettrical setup.
Forestay cover
(John Colgrave GBR 363)
PIMP MY SKIFF TIPS AND ADVICE FROM THE CLASS
Fed up with massy loads of tape on the bow rig adjuster?
Looking for a better solution than a bit of bike inner tube.
Use a thin bit of plastic tube combined with 2 shroud covers that can just slide up and down, no tape needed. Plus this makes the sheets roll round the forestay on a gybe much easier.
Instructions:
You need 2 eletrical shroud covers and a length of plastic tube.
One shround at the top, the other at the bottom of the plastic tube. Then just slide the whole lot up and down as needed to give access to the rig adjuster and boat breaker attachment.
