BOAT GADGET
PIMPS
BOAT GADGET PIMPS....
USEFUL GADGETS TO FULLY PIMP YOUR SKIFF
Mast Head Fitting (Justo Martinez ESP)
PIMP MY SKIFF TIPS AND ADVICE FROM THE CLASS
Here is my solution for the mast head crane. My mast head crane with the hole (made from Ovington) breaks, so I started to think about a solution.
I use a small piece 4 mm dynema to tide the halyard. I have been sailing for three months with full cunni a few days and the halyard and the dynema piece do not have any damage.
A detailed step-by-step guide is now shown below …
Stage 1
Stage 2
Stage 3
Instructions:
Just do what it shows in the pictures … or ask Justo via the forum here.
Step 1
Step 2
Step 3
Step 4
Step 5
Step 6
Step 7
Step 8
Step 9
Step 10
Ovington's Carbon Compass bracket available for the MUSTO Skiff
PIMP MY SKIFF TIPS AND ADVICE FROM THE CLASS
Ovington Boats has developed a custom compass bracket for the MUSTO Skiff to take the Tacktick Micro. A two piece carbon moulding makes for a smooth clean fitting that sits neatly at the base of the mast.
This is available now direct from Ovington via www.ovingtonboats.com
How to Progrip the Wings
(By Max Doehler, GER 403)
PIMP MY SKIFF TIPS AND ADVICE FROM THE CLASS
After 4 years of use, the original grey anti-slip tape on my wings was completely worn off. Therefore, I decided to take the time to change it for Progrip.
I believe ProGrip is superior to the grey tape because it provides better grip, it dosen’t wear out your clothes or skin. It also looks better and it is cheaper. But, it is less robust to damage.
Changing it only takes 2 hours. This is the instruction for all who those who like to stand safely on the wings again.
1. Remove all parts as footloops, bushing for trapeze elastic, end-caps etc..
2. With a hot air gun you can heat the old tape from outside in sections of approx 30-40 cm and rip it off. Alternatively you can use a hairdryer and plug it into one end of the wing. The wing will be heated from inside and you can use both hands for ripping. I would not recommend this with a hot air gun because the glued connection of inner and outer bar could be harmed.
3. If there are any leftovers of the adhesive, wash them down with acetone and an old cloth.
4. Cut the ProGrip at a little more length than needed.
5. Fix the ProGrip with a longitudinal edge at the wing. The surface of the bar has a different colour where it was under the old grip. You can use the borderline for orientation. Don’t fix the ProGrip around the bar at once. In order not to wrap the ProGrip, do not use too much power while sticking it on.
6. Once the ProGrip is fixed on one side, you can carefully push the remaining with flat hands around the wing. In order not to cause blisters, do not rod the material. If it is fixed at all, you can use more power.
7. In the end just cut off the overlapping parts at the bar ends and fix the fittings again. Ready!
The ambient temperature should be around 20 degree to guarantee a good crosslinking of the adhesive. While sticking the ProGrip on, the wing can be heated up.
On request I got the answer that the permanent pressure for a longer period should improve the ProGrip/bar-connection. Although, I don’t know if it’s right, I did it and I have left the wings in my cellar until the season starts.
There is one minor disadvantage of ProGrip. If you like to renew it, it is not that easy to rip off like the old grey tape. But, next to all the advantages – like good grip, long lasting and reduced wear of clothes due to soft surface – this is negligible.
You will enjoy it the next time on the race course when the others slip around in their boats while you can fully concentrate on good racing. ;o)
Kind regards,
Max
MUSTO Skiff – GER 403
Pimp For An Older Trapeze Harness (By Rick Perkins & Ian Renilson)
PIMP MY SKIFF TIPS AND ADVICE FROM THE CLASS
All good pimps should have somthing special hanging from the crotch …
This mod has been developed to attach the mainsheet tail to the harness.
Mode Requires:
- Lewmar Nab Shackle
Top Pic is Rick’s Harness / Lower Pic is Ian’s Harness
Instructions from Ian:
I use a clip on my harness so that I can control the main from the wire whilst going downwind without leaning in and I don’t have to worry about it through the gybe.
I don’t know how people manage without a clip – they must be much cleverer than me. But no matter how clever they are, I’m sure they would find a good clip to be very beneficial with only a couple of very minor drawbacks – so why wouldn’t you use one?
I’ve tried several clip arrangements and the best I’ve come up with is a modified Lewmar Nab Shackle attached to the crotch of my harness.
The clip is prevented from twisting so that if I always put the mainsheet into the clip the same way then I know which side to grab (i.e. the side going to the cleat rather than the take-away).
The clip is fitted on my harness below the trap hook so that it does not get catch when I hook-on.
The clip is held firmly so that it can pivot but not twist – that way I can clip and unclip the sheet with one hand – the only time I do this during sailing is when I capsize.
I take a Lewmar Nab Shackle and cut off most of the eye at the end then drill across the remaining legs of the eye to produce two small holes – which I then use to attach it to my harness with thin rope. See photos of the harness.
When you are using a clip is important that your mainsheet take-away is near the base of the mainsheet tower, rather than at the back of the boat – or you will trip up on the mainsheet.
I think the only down-sides of a good clip are:
- It takes a little practice to prevent getting caught up in the mainsheet – mostly during tacks.
- Very occasionally you still get caught up in it.
- When you capsize & recover it’s something else to do (that’s the only significant drawback, but it saves so many capsizes……)
The benefits are numerous – basically it makes sailing much easier – more reliable – and you can do things that you can’t do without a clip so it is faster around the racecourse too…
Rick adds … I echo Ian’s comments. I have mine on elastic to give a bit of give should I stand on the tail of the mainsheet or capsize. The downside of that is that it needs two hands to release the mainsheet during a capsize – another incentive not to do it!
